Características de estabilidade e shelf life de cosméticos nanoestruturados: uma revisão

Abstract

Nanotechnology applied to cosmetology represents a significant breakthrough in the delivery of active ingredients, seeking to overcome the permeation limitations of conventional formulations. This study aimed to critically analyze, through a qualitative literature review (Web of Science, Google Scholar, and SciELO), the influence of nanostructured systems on the stability and shelf life of cosmetic products. Unlike a generalist approach, the results evidenced that nanostructuring does not inherently provide absolute stability, as these are thermodynamically unstable systems. It was analytically established that solid matrices—such as Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLNs) and polymeric nanocapsules—offer superior structural protection against degradation and premature leakage of the active ingredient when compared to fluid systems, such as liposomes and nanoemulsions. In the context of quality control, it was found that the application of stability studies governed by ANVISA guidelines is indispensable, yet insufficient to certify the integrity of nanosystems. Aligning with the FDA's regulatory requirements for nanomaterials, shelf life validation mandatorily requires instrumental monitoring through Dynamic Light Scattering (DLS) and Zeta Potential. In conclusion, although nanotechnology optimizes cosmetic performance, its wide application still faces critical challenges and limitations, notably the gaps in nanotoxicology regarding involuntary systemic absorption, the high cost of characterization, and the severe mechanical obstacles involved in industrial scale-up.